1890

By 1886, familiar features such as the two horse patch have appeared; it's placed on the right hand side of the jeans. The design changed, according to Levi's records, in 1886 (there is only limited information, because most of Levi's records were lost in the fire following the 1906 earthquake). There is still one back pocket, making these '4 pocket' jeans. Levi's  jeans are already being copied fairly widely, and by 1900 or so rival makers include Special, Stronghold and Can't Bust Em, all of which look pretty similar - many of them have Levi's-style arcuates, too.

Features:

Pockets: 4 (one back pocket), back pocket assumes the shape we all know. Watch pocket moves down, just below the waistband, its bottom inside pocket, but is higher than later jeans.

Rivets: Read " LS&Co SF". These remain flat-topped, giving a more agricultural look.

Belt Patch: 2 horse patch in leather, no size printed on

Arcuates; vary widely on originals, hand done.

Cut of LVC version: Shape of jeans is similar to 1880s versions; these will be slightly narrower than, say the 1901, with noticeably more taper on the legs. .

How to size: LVC repros of 1880 and 1890 jeans tend to be oversized. A 34W might actually measure 35. This will shrink to around 33. But being loose fitting, they will not stretch a huge amount. Best guess, is that your 34W jean will measure 33 when washed.  You can usually get away with wearing these actual waist size.

1890 jeans from '06 season

Note the flat-topped rivets, the 2-horse patch - which appeared in 1886, and at this point doesn't have the size printed on. The arcuate is  a different shape from the 1901 version, with the two lines hand-done, and placed quite close together (although this varies on originals) and the single pocket is quite small with a distinctive, more pointed shape.

501 model guide • 1880 Nevada •  1880 XX • ‘First Blue Jean’ • 1890  • 1901 • 1915 • 1922 201 • 1933  • 1937 • 1944 • 1947 • 1955 • 1966 • 1978 •