Like its close cousin, the 20s 201, the 1933 501 has belt loops AND a cinch, plus the suspender buttons. Again, these have the widest leg of any 501 jean, reflecting fashions in the 30s. Note also that these have a more lemon-coloured stitching.

The denim now carries a red selvage line, which denotes that it is made by Cone, for Levi's (Cone still makes all the redline selvage for LVC to date). LS&Co had started using Cone fabric around 1915, and the company became the exclusive supplier for Levi’s by 1922. Cone were (and still are) based in North Carolina, near to where the cotton was grown, and proved a more reliable supplier than Amoskeag in New Hampshire, who had recently undergone several changes in ownership and strikes by the workers.

Cone fabric looked distinctly different from Amoskeag; it used synthetic indigo, and was a darker colour with a red cast.

These jeans are more fitted than their predecessors, with a wide leg and fairly shaped backside.

Features:

Pockets: 5, with hand-sewn and variable single stitching. 

Rivets: Read " LS&Co SF" . By now these are applied using a new machine, so they’re round-topped rather than flat.

Belt Patch: 2 horse patch in leather, which now has the size printed on.

Arcuates: vary widely on originals, single needle, hand done.

Cut of LVC version: Legs are among the widest LVC, although not as full as the 1922 201.

How to size: Like all the earlier jeans, the 1933 are made slightly oversize. I would buy actual size in these; they will be one inch larger than the tag (2009 sizing, 4170 button code) and will still be fairly generously sized around the thighs etc. As usual, the foolproof way to to go from actual, measured waist size; size up two inches for a classic fit, buy actual size and stretch out the waist if you like them slimmer.

This pair courtesy of Cary at The Department of Works. These jeans usually fade to a royal blue colour, but this pair shows what a gnarly, vintage-style fade you can achieve if you wear them hard.

501 model guide • 1880 Nevada •  1880 XX • ‘First Blue Jean’ • 1890  • 1901 • 1915 • 1922 201 • 1933  • 1937 • 1944 • 1947 • 1955 • 1966 • 1978 •