From its first introduction in 1873, through to today, the Levi's 501 has evolved constantly, both in shape and in fittings. This is a brief guide to the various models. It is aimed mainly at those who intend to wear the current repros, made by LVC, but will also give you a good idea of how the original jeans changed through the years.  For information on the fabric click here.

1873

Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis patent riveted jeans this year. The first Levi's come in a cotton duck fabric (one example has survived in an orange-brown, and has since been repro'd) and in blue denim. The denim finish soon proves more popular.

Just to confuse us, there are TWO early models of Levi's jeans. These two jeans are generally known as the  'XX' - which is the initial title of the 501 - and the 'Nevada', which has more of a workwear look. 'Nevada' is not an official name - rather, it's what some Levi's people call this model, after one that was found in the Nevada desert and purchased by Levi's for $42,000. Recent research by Mike Harris suggests that the NEvada is the earlier model, which evolved into the XX (later retitled the 501XX).

Early jeans have one back pocket and a selvage waistband. These jeans were originally made of denim dyed with natural indigo, with a selvage that featured a simple white stripe at the edge (no red line). Reissues are mostly made in synthetic indigo denim, which comes from Kurabo, Japan.

“Nevada”, circa 1880

This model is normally termed “the Nevada” after an old pair that was found in the Nevada desert, and seems to predate the XX model. The 'Knappave' LVC reissue seems to be based on a different sample of the same jean. Both date from around 1880.

Pockets: 4 (one back pocket), wide hem on back pocket, plus ruler/pliers pocket on 'Nevada' version. Raised watchpocket overlaps waistband on Nevada/Knappave, and bottom sits clear of main pocket.

Rivets: early, squarish design (flat-topped) with "Pat May 1873 LS&Co SF" legend.

Belt Patch; early "Levi Strauss & Co" version in a Victorian serif face, size written in by hand, placed in centre, between cinch, .

Arcuates: vary widely on originals, hand done.

Cut of LVC version: anti fit, baggy in the seat, high rise, straight legs, which are reasonably wide. I believe that, like other other early versions, the raw versions tend to be made slightly oversize, but there have been many different versions of circa 1880 repros, hence you can expect model variation.

How to size: Most versions are oversize, so if you don't have a chance to try them on first, best option will be to buy actual waist size. If they're too snug, cold-wash only. 

Denim:  Generally, as for the XX. There was a lovely reissue of the Nevada around 2001, shown below, which used natural indigo fabric from Kurabo, and distressing by Bart Sights. These jeans, like most of the pre-1927 501 versions, use synthetic indigo denim from Kurabo.

Note the selvage waistband...

Note the high watchpocket, which sits clear of the main pocket: this is unique to the Nevada, as is the wide hem on the back pocket. These jeans also have a single line of stitching at the pockets and yoke, which is unique to the very earliest Levi’s jeans. 

Nevada reissue: these are a very accurate replica of the original jeans found in the Nevada desert, and bought for $42,000 by LS&Co. Reissued in 2001, and getting very pricey on the second hand market.

501 model guide • 1880 Nevada •  1880 XX • ‘First Blue Jean’ • 1890  • 1901 • 1915 • 1922 201 • 1933  • 1937 • 1944 • 1947 • 1955 • 1966 • 1978 •